Day 13- Sassafras Gap Shelter to Cable Gap Shelter

Total Miles Hiked: 159.2
Miles Hiked Today: 15.2
Glazed Honey Buns Consumed: 1 each

  After a surprisingly good night sleep in the shelter,  I got up around 6am, first light, and made some instant espresso to enjoy with my honey bun. Sage was a bit challenging to coax out of her bag, but we finally got packed up and  hit the trail around 0745.  We had two options for the day, either 15 or 21 miles. 21 miles would get us to the "Fontana Dam Hilton", but we that option doesn't make much sense as we would not be ready to enter the Smokies the next day after doing such a long hike.

   Right before dark the day before, we heard and saw a huge tree fall. When we started hiking today, we walked past the tree that fell. No reason for it to fall, it wasn't even windy when it started to go. 

   The climb up to Cheoah Bald wasn't too bad, on fresh legs we knocked it out quickly. 

 Our first stop was Cheoah Bald. We had to do a mile climb to get there, but it wasn't too bad and we were fresh from a good night sleep. The view, like many others on this trip, was impressive.

Only 20 miles left to Fontana Dam. Let's go for it!

   Energized by an early start and with ambitions of big miles, we hiked fast to Stecoah Gap, 6.8 miles from the start of our day. It was lunchtime, we were exhausted, and there was a picnic table waiting for us. We decided to make lunch and see if some food would help to give us a boost. I made Red Beans and Rice with sausage. Sage ate hers with a spork, I wrapped mine as burritos.

   Up to this point,  hiking all day has not caused me to get really hungry. If anything it has suppressed my appetite. You have to make yourself eat for fuel. Many evenings it would have been easier to just skip dinner and climb into bed. I've noticed the past couple days my stomach has been a bit upset while hiking fast. I think it's because it is empty,  but I don't feel hungry. Eating makes my stomach settle down, so I think it is hunger, my body is just not use to burning 8000 calories a day.

Today, Sage and I diverged from our standard one hot meal a day pattern,  and ate a hot lunch, hot second lunch and a hot dinner before bed. I think our hiker hunger is kicking in.

  It's a good thing we took an extended break at Stecoah Gap, because we had no idea what was ahead. One of the other hikers called it Jacob's Ladder, it's a long climb that is very steep. No switchbacks, just straight up the mountain.  I know I say this alot, but it was one of the hardest things we've done yet.

   After that climb, we descended to Brown Fork Gap Shelter, where I hung a hammock and took a nap. After my nap, we made Ramen and got back on the trail.

When you can't find the trail, just aim for the rocks...it's almost as reliable as white blazes. 

   We arrived at Cable Gap Shelter around 1930 and a 16 year old guy named Will was already there. Will is was home schooled and finished high school at 16. Before doing college, he decided to hike the AT. We chatted with Will for a while as we made our dinner and set up camp.

Day 12- Nantahala Outdoor Center to Sassafras Gap Shelter

May 17th
Total Miles Hiked: 144
Total Miles Today: 6.9
Pairs of  Shoes tried on: 6
Pairs of shoes purchased: 1

   Today we resisted the urge to take a zero,  even though the weather forecast was for rain most of the day. We got picked up from our 2 bedroom house from the 70s, aka Camper Cabin and dropped off in town. It was raining the whole time.

    We went straight to the NOC Outfitter to find some shoe inserts for my shoes, and potentially shoes for Sage. When we removed our hiking boots, it was clear my Dr. Sholes inserts were toast, they started falling apart at about 100 trail miles.  As for Sage, one of her boots had a very worm out factory insert, and the other was completely missing. Not good. It is amazing her feet have survived this far. I asked the Salesman about the "Superfeet" inserts they sell for $50, and he told me that if the current inserts were working well, I might actually cause problems with the expensive inserts. I appreciated his honesty, he was more concerned with my hike than making a sale. He ended up fixing my Merrills with some inserts removed from some other returned shoes they had in the back and didn't even charge for it.

    Sage was a bit more challenging.  She tried on at least 6 pair of shoes, probably more. The salesman was very patient,  and we finally settled on a pair of Merrill Moab Ventilators,  just like mine only smaller. We also found out that as AT Hikers, Merrill gives a discount.  I can't say enough positive about Nantahala Outfitters, we walked out the door with our feet ready for another 130 miles, and the salesman was very patient and knowledgeable.  We even got a great price.

Near the register I noticed Vegan Jerky. Is that made from vegans? Not sure how I feel about that, I guess it depends on how the vegan population is doing. 

With our freshly improved feet, we walked 50 yards to the restaurant and ordered burgers and fries for lunch.  The best burgers ever.  Try it some time. Hike 130 miles to NOC and order one...you will surely agree. We have also enjoyed the best ramen ever on the trail.

And then the party was over. At noon, we started 6 miles of climbing from the valley back up into the mountains. 

We climbed from  1726 ft to 4700 ft, and then dropped back down a bit  for the last mile to the shelter.  We rolled into the shelter around 1715. Our original plan was to press on, but Sage was ready to call it a day, and I wasn't about to argue.  We are right on schedule for our goal, and an easy day today coupled with a short day the day we arrive at Fontana Dam will help to ensure we are ready to tackle the Smokies. 

   

It has been odd though, I am not use to getting to camp over 3 hours before sunset.  It certainly allows for a leisurely dinner. Oddly enough,  this will be my 3rd night in a row not in a hammock.  Sage wants to sleep in the shelter, and with rain in the forecast,  I'm happy to keep the tarps dry.

We hope to break camp quickly tomorrow as we have a 15 mile day to knock out.

    The guy at the NOC Outfitter taught me to adjust my laces base on the swelling in my fee t. My right foot felt great all day as a result.

Day 11- Wayah Shelter to Nantahala Outdoor Center

Totally Miles Hiked 137.1
Miles Hiked Today: 16.3
Start Time: 0845
End Time: 1840

  It was a cold morning and we didn't spring out of bed and hit the trail. Instead, I got up and made ramen for Sage and I. Ramen makes a great breakfast,  it's hot, it's salty, it's and meal and a drink all in one. Sage was warm and comfortable in the shelter under two sleeping bags(she grabbed mine when I got up), so we were a bit slow getting on the trail.

    Our goal for the day was very ambitious, the Nantahala Outdoor Center,  over 16 miles away.  Along the way we had a climb up Wesser Bald, and then a long descent to NOC, going from a height of 5150 ft down to 1726 ft. 

    Trail conditions were excellent,  smooth and a gentle grade so we made great time for the first couple hours. There is a group of thru hikers we have been running with, and initially we led the group up the first climb. But as always occurs,  we fell behind the group a bit with our "foot breaks" every couple hours. We also like to stop at the overlooks and enjoy the view with a snack.

   The view from atop Wesser Bald was pretty impressive. A fellow Hammock camper had the right idea, and hung their hammock at the very top of the observation tower.

Clingmans Dome looms large on the horizon. We will be there in a few days. 

  Coming back down from the towers is always scarier than going up.

    With about 8 miles left to go, I was dragging bad. Both Sage and I had to take more breaks than usual for the last few hours of the day. My stomach was also a bit unsettled, it turns out that eating nothing but candy and little Debbie s is hard on the stomach.

The descent down to Nantahala Outdoor Center was 4 miles of knee busting drops. We were really low on energy, so it seemed like the day would never end.

My stomach felt much better after we ate some dinner at NOC. (Nantahala Outdoor Center)

After a huge dinner, we checked into our "cabin", a little house a few miles from NOC. The price was right, the shower was hot, and we washed all of our laundry. 

NOC is a good place for a "zero" and because the weather forecast for tomorrow is rain, most of our group is hanging out around town tomorrow.  We have decided to press on, there is really nothing to do here but rest and eat. As section hikers...we don't have as much time to burn as thru hikers. I'm also eager to get started on the Smokies.  We may do a shorter day tomorrow since we have to do such an absurd climb out of town.

So tomorrrow....rain or rain...we hit the trail for a big climb.

  

Day 10- Winding Stair Gap to Wayah Shelter

Total Miles Hiked: 120.8
Miles Hiked Today: 11.0

Start Time: 1330

End Time: 2030

New Favorite Drink- Hawaiian Punch "Red" Flavor drink 

North Carolina continues to impress. The views today were panoramic and striking from atop two balds. 

  We started the day at the hostel and got a ride to Emmanuel PCA Church. Sunday school was on the Westminster Confession of Faith and the sermon was from Romans Chapter 3. We felt right at home. They also served coffee and Hostess Cupcakes, so I had 2 of each. The  pastor and the elders asked if there was anything at all we need, and I said a ride to the trail would be great. After church we realized that Sage had left her hiking boots at the hostel, so a friendly fellow hiker from the church was more than happy to run us by the hostel first and then drove us to the trail via Bojangles.  

Fed both physically and spiritually, we got back on the trail by 1330 and started the climb to Silers Bald. 

After a very long, steady climb, we were met by this view.

Occasional breaks on the trail provide a chance for Sage to write in her journal.

  

Our next big climb of the day was to Wayah Bald. About 30 minutes before sunset, we stumbled to the top of our last long climb of the day. There is a stone observation tower at Wayah Bald, so we climbed up and enjoyed the view. From the top we could see the Smokies,  which we will be entering in a matter of days.

We rolled into Wayah Shelter shortly before sunset and started to unpack. A thru hiker who had been at the hostel the night before said there were two spots left in the shelter.  He also offered to move his bag from next to the wall so Sage would have the wall on one side and me on the other. We accepted his offer,  and set up our gear.

     During our time in Franklin,  we picked up 8 Big Red Smokies with buns. I noticed there was a nice fire going, so I had Sage find a good stick and we started roasting our dinner. We then shared the remaining sausages with all the hikers around the fire. Everyone was thrilled, the sausages were a big hit. A Thru Hiker from New Zealand commented that the evening would be one of those memorable events etched in his memory of his hike.

Want to make a hiker happy? Unexpected Food works every time.

Day 9- Carter Gap Shelter to Winding Stair Gap to Franklin, NC

Total Miles Hiked from Springer:  109.8
Miles Hiked Today: 15.9
Miles walked in town: 3.0
Milestone: Over 100 miles hiked
Physical Status
   Dan: Right wrist is tender and weak but slowly improving. Right food is swollen by the end of a day's hike, but isn't getting worse. Knees holding up but throwing off subtle clues not to push harder.
    Sage: Nearly blister free, also dealing with some foot swelling.

    Our bodies are feeling the wear from many days on the trail, and we are ready for a stop in town to resupply.

  We were on the trail by 0645 and set out at a rapid pace.

About an hour after our start, we saw this amazing view:

We covered the ground from the shelter to Albert Mountain at maximum speed (over 2mph).

Then we hit the steep part of the trail. I call it a trail because there were white blazes, not because of its character istics. The white blazes led up what looked more like a rock climb than a hiking trail.

  Once on top of Albert Mountain, we saw this view.

  We stopped at the Long Branch Shelter for lunch. I sent Sage to gather some water, and while she was gone I stumbled down the shelter steps, catching myself by falling back onto a bench. I was unharmed, but it was a reminder to be extra careful when tired.

    Sage returned with the water and I made her a 2.5 serving Mountain House Beef Stew. She ate almost the whole thing, which was amazing since she normally eats very little.

   

Lots of water. No need to carry a bunch.

Just past Rock Gap, I got a strong cell signal and started making calls to coordinate a ride into town. The owner of Goode Grove AT & Adventure Hostel picked up the phone, and offered to pick us up in 2 hours at Winding Stair Gap.

    The last climb of the day was steeper than expected, but we powered up the climb. We arrived 20 minutes before our pickup, 15.9 Miles hiked.

After cleaning up at the hostel, we discovered there was a Chinese Buffet next to a Walmart Supercenter only 1.5 miles away. Perfect for a big dinner and resupply. We walked back from Walmart with bags of chips, donuts, rice, tuna, ramen, drink mixes, bread and a little candy.

Since It felt like we walked a mile inside Walmart, Sage declared the day our first 20 mile day.

Day 8- Muskrat Creek Shelter to Carter Gap Shelter

Miles Hiked Today: 12.5
Total Miles From Springer: 93.9
Donuts Consumed: All of them
Ibuprofen Taken: Dan 4. Sage 1

    

The rain stopped a bit after sunrise, which provided a good excuse for us to start a bit late. I fried our cheap kielbasa for breakfast while chatting with a vegan thru hiker. I think we read each other correctly than dietary proselytizing was not likely to go well, so we kept the conversation friendly. In a gesture of friendliness from the cruel, meat eating world I offered him an apple from Sage's pack. He declined and went back to his breakfast of nuts and berries. I think I heard a peanut scream in terror as he chewed his Larabar.

    The sun came out about the time we hit the trail. Even better, it was cold and windy. Perfect conditions for climbing a mountain. Sage and I put it into warp drive and arrived at Standing Indian Shelter for an early lunch. Along the way we passed a few thru hikers we've met along the way, including  Yorg from Northern Germany who knows enough English to say he is a thru hiker. Further attempts at friendly conversation were unsuccessful, he just didn't seem to understand. I'm rooting for you to complete your thru hike Yorg.

    Sage and I have been described as "fast" by a few of the through hikers in the pack we're running with. They then usually go on to say " What happened to you? You passes us, and then arrived an hour after we did?

    The answer is usually " we stopped to cook lunch, take a foot break, etc." This strategy is working for us. Other than a bit of swelling from the daily pounding, our feet are doing great. Over 90 miles and virtually no blisters.

   Let me also put the " fast" comment in context.  People who are actually fast and started when we did are long gone. 

   Since we only have a few weeks, I do like to keep up the mileage. But not at the cost of missing a view.  Multiple people have told us the I-40 to Hot Springs (post Smokies) segment is their favorite part of the trail, so I want to ensure we see that whole section. Wherever we stop this hike will set up a future section hike, from the endpoint of this hike to Damascus,  Va.

    Sage and I had hoped to push further than we did today, but our bodies were spent,  so at 515 pm, we stopped for the day. I was so tired it took me extra time to set up our hammocks and figure out what and how to cook. I could have fallen asleep at 6 pm I was so tired.

    This early stop provided plenty of time to cook. We consumed most of what was left in our food bag.  I felt quite full by the end of our feast, and I am hoping the extra calories coupled with the food weight loss in our packs will propel us through the remaining 16 miles to Franklin tomorrow.

Given the location of this trail, whoever this sign is talking about, she won't be chunky for long.

Yes, sometimes the AT looks like this.

A natural flower planter along the trail.

And sometimes it looks more like a trail. Going up.

A Foot break on Standing Indian Mountain

There is plenty of water on the trail this time of year.

I carried the fool thing this far, I'm very tempted to eat the Do Not Eat packet.