Day 12- Nantahala Outdoor Center to Sassafras Gap Shelter

May 17th
Total Miles Hiked: 144
Total Miles Today: 6.9
Pairs of  Shoes tried on: 6
Pairs of shoes purchased: 1

   Today we resisted the urge to take a zero,  even though the weather forecast was for rain most of the day. We got picked up from our 2 bedroom house from the 70s, aka Camper Cabin and dropped off in town. It was raining the whole time.

    We went straight to the NOC Outfitter to find some shoe inserts for my shoes, and potentially shoes for Sage. When we removed our hiking boots, it was clear my Dr. Sholes inserts were toast, they started falling apart at about 100 trail miles.  As for Sage, one of her boots had a very worm out factory insert, and the other was completely missing. Not good. It is amazing her feet have survived this far. I asked the Salesman about the "Superfeet" inserts they sell for $50, and he told me that if the current inserts were working well, I might actually cause problems with the expensive inserts. I appreciated his honesty, he was more concerned with my hike than making a sale. He ended up fixing my Merrills with some inserts removed from some other returned shoes they had in the back and didn't even charge for it.

    Sage was a bit more challenging.  She tried on at least 6 pair of shoes, probably more. The salesman was very patient,  and we finally settled on a pair of Merrill Moab Ventilators,  just like mine only smaller. We also found out that as AT Hikers, Merrill gives a discount.  I can't say enough positive about Nantahala Outfitters, we walked out the door with our feet ready for another 130 miles, and the salesman was very patient and knowledgeable.  We even got a great price.

Near the register I noticed Vegan Jerky. Is that made from vegans? Not sure how I feel about that, I guess it depends on how the vegan population is doing. 

With our freshly improved feet, we walked 50 yards to the restaurant and ordered burgers and fries for lunch.  The best burgers ever.  Try it some time. Hike 130 miles to NOC and order one...you will surely agree. We have also enjoyed the best ramen ever on the trail.

And then the party was over. At noon, we started 6 miles of climbing from the valley back up into the mountains. 

We climbed from  1726 ft to 4700 ft, and then dropped back down a bit  for the last mile to the shelter.  We rolled into the shelter around 1715. Our original plan was to press on, but Sage was ready to call it a day, and I wasn't about to argue.  We are right on schedule for our goal, and an easy day today coupled with a short day the day we arrive at Fontana Dam will help to ensure we are ready to tackle the Smokies. 

   

It has been odd though, I am not use to getting to camp over 3 hours before sunset.  It certainly allows for a leisurely dinner. Oddly enough,  this will be my 3rd night in a row not in a hammock.  Sage wants to sleep in the shelter, and with rain in the forecast,  I'm happy to keep the tarps dry.

We hope to break camp quickly tomorrow as we have a 15 mile day to knock out.

    The guy at the NOC Outfitter taught me to adjust my laces base on the swelling in my fee t. My right foot felt great all day as a result.

Day 11- Wayah Shelter to Nantahala Outdoor Center

Totally Miles Hiked 137.1
Miles Hiked Today: 16.3
Start Time: 0845
End Time: 1840

  It was a cold morning and we didn't spring out of bed and hit the trail. Instead, I got up and made ramen for Sage and I. Ramen makes a great breakfast,  it's hot, it's salty, it's and meal and a drink all in one. Sage was warm and comfortable in the shelter under two sleeping bags(she grabbed mine when I got up), so we were a bit slow getting on the trail.

    Our goal for the day was very ambitious, the Nantahala Outdoor Center,  over 16 miles away.  Along the way we had a climb up Wesser Bald, and then a long descent to NOC, going from a height of 5150 ft down to 1726 ft. 

    Trail conditions were excellent,  smooth and a gentle grade so we made great time for the first couple hours. There is a group of thru hikers we have been running with, and initially we led the group up the first climb. But as always occurs,  we fell behind the group a bit with our "foot breaks" every couple hours. We also like to stop at the overlooks and enjoy the view with a snack.

   The view from atop Wesser Bald was pretty impressive. A fellow Hammock camper had the right idea, and hung their hammock at the very top of the observation tower.

Clingmans Dome looms large on the horizon. We will be there in a few days. 

  Coming back down from the towers is always scarier than going up.

    With about 8 miles left to go, I was dragging bad. Both Sage and I had to take more breaks than usual for the last few hours of the day. My stomach was also a bit unsettled, it turns out that eating nothing but candy and little Debbie s is hard on the stomach.

The descent down to Nantahala Outdoor Center was 4 miles of knee busting drops. We were really low on energy, so it seemed like the day would never end.

My stomach felt much better after we ate some dinner at NOC. (Nantahala Outdoor Center)

After a huge dinner, we checked into our "cabin", a little house a few miles from NOC. The price was right, the shower was hot, and we washed all of our laundry. 

NOC is a good place for a "zero" and because the weather forecast for tomorrow is rain, most of our group is hanging out around town tomorrow.  We have decided to press on, there is really nothing to do here but rest and eat. As section hikers...we don't have as much time to burn as thru hikers. I'm also eager to get started on the Smokies.  We may do a shorter day tomorrow since we have to do such an absurd climb out of town.

So tomorrrow....rain or rain...we hit the trail for a big climb.

  

Day 10- Winding Stair Gap to Wayah Shelter

Total Miles Hiked: 120.8
Miles Hiked Today: 11.0

Start Time: 1330

End Time: 2030

New Favorite Drink- Hawaiian Punch "Red" Flavor drink 

North Carolina continues to impress. The views today were panoramic and striking from atop two balds. 

  We started the day at the hostel and got a ride to Emmanuel PCA Church. Sunday school was on the Westminster Confession of Faith and the sermon was from Romans Chapter 3. We felt right at home. They also served coffee and Hostess Cupcakes, so I had 2 of each. The  pastor and the elders asked if there was anything at all we need, and I said a ride to the trail would be great. After church we realized that Sage had left her hiking boots at the hostel, so a friendly fellow hiker from the church was more than happy to run us by the hostel first and then drove us to the trail via Bojangles.  

Fed both physically and spiritually, we got back on the trail by 1330 and started the climb to Silers Bald. 

After a very long, steady climb, we were met by this view.

Occasional breaks on the trail provide a chance for Sage to write in her journal.

  

Our next big climb of the day was to Wayah Bald. About 30 minutes before sunset, we stumbled to the top of our last long climb of the day. There is a stone observation tower at Wayah Bald, so we climbed up and enjoyed the view. From the top we could see the Smokies,  which we will be entering in a matter of days.

We rolled into Wayah Shelter shortly before sunset and started to unpack. A thru hiker who had been at the hostel the night before said there were two spots left in the shelter.  He also offered to move his bag from next to the wall so Sage would have the wall on one side and me on the other. We accepted his offer,  and set up our gear.

     During our time in Franklin,  we picked up 8 Big Red Smokies with buns. I noticed there was a nice fire going, so I had Sage find a good stick and we started roasting our dinner. We then shared the remaining sausages with all the hikers around the fire. Everyone was thrilled, the sausages were a big hit. A Thru Hiker from New Zealand commented that the evening would be one of those memorable events etched in his memory of his hike.

Want to make a hiker happy? Unexpected Food works every time.

Day 9- Carter Gap Shelter to Winding Stair Gap to Franklin, NC

Total Miles Hiked from Springer:  109.8
Miles Hiked Today: 15.9
Miles walked in town: 3.0
Milestone: Over 100 miles hiked
Physical Status
   Dan: Right wrist is tender and weak but slowly improving. Right food is swollen by the end of a day's hike, but isn't getting worse. Knees holding up but throwing off subtle clues not to push harder.
    Sage: Nearly blister free, also dealing with some foot swelling.

    Our bodies are feeling the wear from many days on the trail, and we are ready for a stop in town to resupply.

  We were on the trail by 0645 and set out at a rapid pace.

About an hour after our start, we saw this amazing view:

We covered the ground from the shelter to Albert Mountain at maximum speed (over 2mph).

Then we hit the steep part of the trail. I call it a trail because there were white blazes, not because of its character istics. The white blazes led up what looked more like a rock climb than a hiking trail.

  Once on top of Albert Mountain, we saw this view.

  We stopped at the Long Branch Shelter for lunch. I sent Sage to gather some water, and while she was gone I stumbled down the shelter steps, catching myself by falling back onto a bench. I was unharmed, but it was a reminder to be extra careful when tired.

    Sage returned with the water and I made her a 2.5 serving Mountain House Beef Stew. She ate almost the whole thing, which was amazing since she normally eats very little.

   

Lots of water. No need to carry a bunch.

Just past Rock Gap, I got a strong cell signal and started making calls to coordinate a ride into town. The owner of Goode Grove AT & Adventure Hostel picked up the phone, and offered to pick us up in 2 hours at Winding Stair Gap.

    The last climb of the day was steeper than expected, but we powered up the climb. We arrived 20 minutes before our pickup, 15.9 Miles hiked.

After cleaning up at the hostel, we discovered there was a Chinese Buffet next to a Walmart Supercenter only 1.5 miles away. Perfect for a big dinner and resupply. We walked back from Walmart with bags of chips, donuts, rice, tuna, ramen, drink mixes, bread and a little candy.

Since It felt like we walked a mile inside Walmart, Sage declared the day our first 20 mile day.

Day 8- Muskrat Creek Shelter to Carter Gap Shelter

Miles Hiked Today: 12.5
Total Miles From Springer: 93.9
Donuts Consumed: All of them
Ibuprofen Taken: Dan 4. Sage 1

    

The rain stopped a bit after sunrise, which provided a good excuse for us to start a bit late. I fried our cheap kielbasa for breakfast while chatting with a vegan thru hiker. I think we read each other correctly than dietary proselytizing was not likely to go well, so we kept the conversation friendly. In a gesture of friendliness from the cruel, meat eating world I offered him an apple from Sage's pack. He declined and went back to his breakfast of nuts and berries. I think I heard a peanut scream in terror as he chewed his Larabar.

    The sun came out about the time we hit the trail. Even better, it was cold and windy. Perfect conditions for climbing a mountain. Sage and I put it into warp drive and arrived at Standing Indian Shelter for an early lunch. Along the way we passed a few thru hikers we've met along the way, including  Yorg from Northern Germany who knows enough English to say he is a thru hiker. Further attempts at friendly conversation were unsuccessful, he just didn't seem to understand. I'm rooting for you to complete your thru hike Yorg.

    Sage and I have been described as "fast" by a few of the through hikers in the pack we're running with. They then usually go on to say " What happened to you? You passes us, and then arrived an hour after we did?

    The answer is usually " we stopped to cook lunch, take a foot break, etc." This strategy is working for us. Other than a bit of swelling from the daily pounding, our feet are doing great. Over 90 miles and virtually no blisters.

   Let me also put the " fast" comment in context.  People who are actually fast and started when we did are long gone. 

   Since we only have a few weeks, I do like to keep up the mileage. But not at the cost of missing a view.  Multiple people have told us the I-40 to Hot Springs (post Smokies) segment is their favorite part of the trail, so I want to ensure we see that whole section. Wherever we stop this hike will set up a future section hike, from the endpoint of this hike to Damascus,  Va.

    Sage and I had hoped to push further than we did today, but our bodies were spent,  so at 515 pm, we stopped for the day. I was so tired it took me extra time to set up our hammocks and figure out what and how to cook. I could have fallen asleep at 6 pm I was so tired.

    This early stop provided plenty of time to cook. We consumed most of what was left in our food bag.  I felt quite full by the end of our feast, and I am hoping the extra calories coupled with the food weight loss in our packs will propel us through the remaining 16 miles to Franklin tomorrow.

Given the location of this trail, whoever this sign is talking about, she won't be chunky for long.

Yes, sometimes the AT looks like this.

A natural flower planter along the trail.

And sometimes it looks more like a trail. Going up.

A Foot break on Standing Indian Mountain

There is plenty of water on the trail this time of year.

I carried the fool thing this far, I'm very tempted to eat the Do Not Eat packet. 

Day 7- Dick's Creek Gap to Muskrat Creek Shelter- Georgia Complete

Miles Hiked: 11.8
Start time: 9:15 am
End time: 8:15 pm
Thunderstorms: 2
Total miles from Springer mnt: 81.4

Thursday May 12th (posted on the 13th due to no cell coverage)

  I could write a book about today. It was hard, the views were amazing, and the changes in weather were awesome to watch. Certainly our most memorable day yet, probably my favorite. We got through it, by the grace of God, we conquered the hike. And we were also reminded of God's power and the incredible beauty of his creation.

  Before leaving the hostel, I gave Sage a heavier pack, 30 pounds including a bag of gala apples. I carried only 25.5 pounds. Our weights were with an 8 oz of canister fuel, 2 liters of water each, and enough food to make it to Franklin, NC. I mailed home 2.5 pounds of gear i concluded we didn't need,

   Sage was up to the challenge of a heavier pack,  and lead me up the final climb of the day. And once we finish off the apples with peanut butter, Sage will have a much lighter pack.

   The reader is probably thinking " What
kind of Dad makes his daughter carry the heavier pack? However,  I assure you it was an act of love.  The apples are to prevent scurvy, she has been eating a lot of ramen while on the trail.

     We hit the trail well rested and eager to take on whatever the trail might throw at us. And throw it did. First, this was by far the hardest section of trail yet. It was a moderate climb, nearly continuous until the North Carolina border.

We stopped for lunch at the Plum Orchard shelter and enjoyed frozen Peanut Butter cups I had prepared overnight bat the hostel. I had a cup of  espresso with mine. Sage ramen to drink with her Reeces.

We pressed on and came to the sign marking the Ga border.

At the border I joked: Well, I hope North Carolina is flat.

Oh my....it wasnt. The last two miles of our day of almost continuous climbing were the steepest we have seen anywhere on the hike. 

But wait, there is more. Thunderstorms.  At two different points, a band of thunderstorms blew through with strong winds and cold rain. Both times I had just enough warning to hang my tarp just off the trail, escaping a complete soaking. We got to sit under our tarp watching very wet hikers trudge past.  Why hike in a swift, powerful, and quickly passing storm? We decided to rest, and eat. I explained to a passing through hiker that we are just section hikers, we don't do rain.

The first time the storm blew through, we decided to cook some kielbasa.

Sage likes her kielbasa with Pringles.

I like mine with hot peppers.

The second time a thunderstorm blew through, we had time to hang a hammock.  But there was only room for one, as I had to hang the tarp low to keep  out the rain.

Humm....Hammock is rated for 350 and I'm down to 255, so it can hold us both. Straps are rated to 400, so no need to worry about those.

The rain and wind were very cold during the second storm, the temperature dropped quickly. So we started bundling up. I also got out my down top quilt to keep us warm. We saw the huge gusts, we listened to the hail pelting the tarp, and we heard the rumbling of thunderstorms.

Everything was working great, the two of us even fit ok by laying head to feet. Sage listened to music and was snug and warm.

Then "pop" wham...we were on the ground. One of my Hummingbird Hammock straps had broken. Not cool. They may the lightest on the market, but I need to trust my gear. Sage's straps were nearly new. I will contact the vendor and see how they handle it.

Today was a day for gear failure.  In addition to the strap, my Gossamer Gear G4 pack has started to rip on a load bearing seam. I'm not sure if it will make it through the hike. I can rig it up  and keep going at least to Franklin,  and perhaps Fontana Dam. But i would not want to enter the Smokies with a dying pack.

   So I'll be taking some pictures and emailing a couple cottage vendors, giving them a chance to stand by their gear.

    One piece of gear that didn't fail today was my tarp from Hammock Gear. My tarp is mounted to a continuous ridgeline with a Dutch clip one side, a wasp on the other, and flies on the tarp edges. The whole setup the goes inside a Hammock Gear Snakeskin. I can deploy it in a minute or two, which is how we managed to stay dry on a very stormy day.  The wind and hail were impressive,  and the tarp withstood it all.

Both of had a lot of energy today, and physically are doing well. I think Sage is feeling some of the same foot pain I am. But my right foot swelling has gone down, and I am still blister free. Sage has one or two, but they are taped and seem to be ok.

Hiking is 90 percent mental, and the other 90 percent is taking care of your feet.

I learned something very useful today. It is much more effective to simply slow down on the climbs than try to power on up. The goal is to never stop for a rest. For the first 6 days, my climbing strategy was to push hard...stop, completely winded, rest, repeat. Today I set my pace based on the incline, slowing down to keep my breath even. It worked much better. At times I had to go very slow, but I kept walking up the mountains.

An amazing day, all kinds of weather, intense climbs, and we arrived at the shelter dry and before sunset.