Cooking and Eating on the Trail

  One of the greatest  concerns for any hiker is food. Planning what to bring, how to resupply and an overall food and cooking strategy  is quite challenging. Here are a few things  we learned based on our 22 day, 274 mile section hike.

1) You will not know what and how much you will need to eat before the hike. Give it up, you cannot comprehensively plan your daily menu ahead of time. I had to stifle a laugh every time I saw OCD backpackers pull out zip lock bags with the day's food written on a zip lock bag. They seemed to always have too much (initially) or not enough if they had been on the trail for a while.

2) What looks good from home may not be what you want to eat during the hike

3) From Georgia to Damascus (and probably beyond) it is silly to ship food boxes. Fontana Dam is often listed as a tough resupply. Not when we were there, the general store had a good selection. I am glad we didn't send food, I preferred hunting and gathering with my credit card over receiving trail mix I was tired of in the mail. Note: During the Thru hiker bubble this may not be true, they may run out of food. But in May there was a great selection.

4) I like to cook. I like to eat. I thought I would do so on this trip. But when  you spend 10+ hours hiking, spending the last hour of daylight to make an elaborate meal is very unappealing. I'm use to short, winter trips where tasty, hot food really goes down well. With long days and hot  weather...I could have almost skipped the stove..and I certainly  didn't feel like doing more than heating water.

5) Early in the hike, we did not have much appetite. Sage and I could share a meal. And we typically ate only one hot meal a day.  By the end, we were cooking 2 or more meals for Dinner (One 2.5 serving Mountain  House each), and one or two more hot meals at other times during the day. Our food consumption  more than doubled for the last 7-10 days when compared against the first week.

6) The last week of our hike, when I was hungry my stomach would get unsettled and would hurt. Hiking  was very difficult  without eating something. I REALLY needed to eat when I was hungry. Didn't matter what, but it was critical to put something in my stomach. It would have been very uncomfortable to run out of food. It's been a few days since I got off the trail and I'm still dealing with this painful hunger.

7) Fast, easy to cook (or no cook), high calorie  and low weight was the goal for meals. The first day out of town I might carry something special, like some frozen sausage that would defrost prior to dinner. Ramen, instant mashed potatoes, rice sides...quick, easy and cheap. I brought red pepper flakes as a light hot sauce

8) You can eat a snickers bar or a honey bun for a meal, but it is hard to eat a rice side as a snack. When in doubt on how much you need, bring extra snacks. We never had enough Honey Buns, for example.

9) Healthy Eating? Good for you. That will last for a few days if you are really determined. Good luck eating enough calories eating healthy. You need energy...you will starve if you fill your bag with kale chips. Eating a few snickers bars a day may kill you in daily life. On the trail...it will keep you going.

10) You are not going into the wilderness for weeks. Instead, you are walking from town to town, with a resupply every 2-5 days. This also provides a chance to fend off scurvy with a trip to a Salad Bar. As much as we enjoyed the trail, we also really enjoyed the town stops and associated  showers and meals.

11) Cooking gear: A pot. One. Big enough to cook a single meal with add ins.  (Tuna for example). I found my Toaks 850ml pot to be a great size, definitely large enough for one, and even sufficient  for Sage and I. If you want to bring a separate mug for hot drinks, go ahead, but I would recommend using your pot as your coffee mug as well.

12) Amazon prime was great for resupply. Just  ship your food or gear ahead to a hostel and it will be waiting on you. Why bother  packing your own box..let Amazon do it.

13) Some of my personal favorite trail foods: Ramen, Peanut Butter M&Ms, Any other kind of M&Ms,  Gummy Bears, Snickers, Summer Sausage, Pre-cooked Bacon, Bacon Bits, Cashews, Macadamia Nuts, Mountain House Lasagna, Pepperoni, Cheese, Mrs. Freshly's Iced Honey Buns, Anything  made by Little Debbie, Tasty Cake or Krispy Kreme.

This is the entire cookset Sage and I settled on:

850 ml Toaks pot with lid and handles  4 Oz
Light Ti Cup- 1.6 Oz
Ti Plate/ frypan/ pot lid (minus pot)  1.4 Oz

Plus two ti Sporks: 1.2 Oz for both

Total Weight: 8.2 Oz

Canister Stove: 1 Oz

Day 22- Roaring Fork Shelter to Hot Springs, NC

Appalachian Trail Total Length: 2189
Total Miles Hiked on this trip:   274
Miles Hiked Today: 18.3
Section Hike Complete- Springer to Hot Springs
Sage Lifetime Total AT Miles: 465.4
Sage Percentage of AT Hiked: 21%
Dan Lifetime Total AT Miles: 508.4
Dan Percentage of AT Hiked: 23%

At about 615, I got up and started to make espresso and pack. We hit the trail at 0730, with visions of a fast hike and an early arrival in Hot Springs. The initial few miles were downhill,  and we knocked out about 3 miles in the first hour.  Then we started to climb.

Once again our ambition exceeded our energy.  Neither of us had as much energy as the day before.  On a good day, we have been powering up the climbs with almost no breaks.  We took lots of breaks today.

Walnut Mountain Shelter was located just after the first climb of the day. The description of this shelter  on my AT android app, Guthook, made it sound like a dump. It was a dump, but the location looke like an excellent place to spend the night, great campsites nearby.

    Sage plopped down in the shelter and sprawled out on her foam pad.

  After adding a bit of water to our camelbacks,  we continued. Slightly rested,  but still down on energy. We cruised downhill to the start of Bluff Mountain and began our weary climb to the top. After a long, slow plod to the top, our labors were rewarded with no view.  The theme for today was PUDS, Pointless Ups And Downs. A big climb needs an overlook, not just a continuation of the green tunnel. At least we were done climbing. ...we thought. 

About the time we finished the initial decent of Bluff Mountain, it started to rain.  Fairly heavy. We went from drenched in sweat to drenched in rain.  This was an improvement in some respects,  it improved our smell a bit, and helped to cool us off. 

I have no pictures of this stretch because my Android was tucked away to stay dry. 

Completely exhausted, soaked and with sore feet, we walked into Deer Park Mountain Shelter, only 2.8 miles short of town. And the shelter was packed full of 30 to 40 year old women. Piles of them. Easily over 20. While not an unknown demographic on the trail, it still rather odd to see such a large, homogeneous group overflowing  the shelter.  I sat down in the lessening  rain, and kicked off my shoes to "dry" my feet in the pouring rain. As the rain let up, a few of the women ventured out to set up tents and hammocks,  making room for Sage to get out of the rain. 

After our final break of the day, we started our final descent to town. This rock and plaque marked the end of the trail before entering Hot Springs.

After checking into the Laughing Heart Hostel, a few steps away from the trail, we followed the AT into town and had a large meal to celebrate our 274 mile hike.

The climb from Hot Springs back to the Hostel was brutal, involving dozens of steps and tens of feet in elevation gain. But we hauled our tired bodies back and crashed in our bunks.

While our hiking is done, I will do a few more posts.  I plan to do the traditional Pre-Hike "What's in My Pack" review...post hike. Frankly, that's much more useful, as I have a much more accurate view of what works and doesn't after the hike. Overall our gear worked well, but there are a few changes I would make before a similar hike. 

It has been a great hike, it isn't hard to imagine hiking North out of Hot Springs today.  But it is also rewarding to know that we made it, on schedule and mostly intact. 

I encourage the reader to get out and do some day hikes, or even overnight backpacking trips. While I have met multiple folks on the trail whose first backpacking experience started at Springer,  I think the previous hikes Sage and I have done in preparation have made this trip more enjoyable,  rewarding and safe. So if you have enjoyed this blog, go do likewise...go enjoy the outdoors in some form.  

Day 21- Davenport Gap to Roaring Fork Shelter

Thursday May 26
Total Miles Hiked: 255.7
Miles Hiked Today: 17.5

We started the day at the hotel, taking full advantage of the breakfast options. After a couple plates of sausage gravy, I moved to the fruit loops and donuts to ensure a well rounded breakfast.

We went back to Davenport Gap and Nanna joined us for the first two miles of the hike. 

Shortly after we began, Nanna called out " Bear!  Bear!"  Sage and Nanna saw a bear up ahead on the trail.  

Nanna enjoyed a nice downhill section before we started the work of the day, Climbing for miles, dropping back down, and doing it again.

Our first climb of the day was long, very long. Every time you descend to a gap so you can go into town, the AT rewards you with a big climb the next day.

The first climb had a VHF Antenna or something along those lines, I read it is used by aircraft.  I'm not sure the brutal climb was worth it to see a small govt building. 

Notice there is a rattlesnake half way between Sage and I. Once again, Sage keeps trying to step on the poisonous snakes.

Sage and I still do not have trail names. Based on the rattlesnakes she has seen on the trail,  we discussed "Venom" as a possible trail name for Sage. 

Later in the day, Sage saw a second bear. 2 Bears and a rattlesnake in the same day, quite a day for dangerous critters.

By the time we reached Max Patch, I believe we had climbed more than any previous day on the trip. To survive the day's climbs, I did something I haven't done for the whole trip, I put in ear buds and listened to music. It really seemed to help distract me from the absurd physical exertion. It is great fun to have the stamina, strength and lungs to spend the whole day climbing.  The trail is a great way to get in shape for hiking the trail. Or put differently,  after a week or two if suffering...anyone can be a hiking machine.

Max Patch is probably my favorite location yet on the trail. Pictures simply cannot capture the beauty of this spot. I could definitely see bringing the family back here to camp and enjoy a sunset and sunrise.

Tomorrow we have another long day to Hot Springs.  From Max Patch you can see the next mountain to climb. 

A shower and dinner will be our reward, so we plan to hike hard on our last trail day and rocket up that mountain.

We hiked down from Max Patch,  once again, Sage was leading the way.

  We rolled into the shelter around 6 45pm.  At this point, Sage and I had our first significant disagreement of the trip. Up to this point we have been more like hiking buddies than Father/ Daughter. She wanted to press on and do a 21 mile day to the next shelter. Part of me wanted to do that too, but I knew it was unwise to hike a few miles in the dark after such a long day. I had to play the Daddy is in charge card.  To which she responded "Can I just go on without you?"  At these moments i have to remind myself that i was 14 once. At least I don't have to beg her to hike. I opted for roasting polish sausages over the fire and eating a large, delicious dinner to help fuel the next day's hike.

  After hanging our hammocks and dozing off for about an hour. WHAM! I hit the ground. For the second time on this trip, one of our Hummingbird Hammock straps failed, sending me abruptly to the ground. Time to change my Hammock suspension.  I apologize to anyone who has bought those straps based on my recommendation, they have worked fine for the past couple years. I'm assuming I got a pair with some kind of defect,  but 2 different failures in one trip is absurd.

    Hard to believe tomorrow is our last day. I feel like we are just hitting our stride. It's a great life on the trail, we will miss the daily challenges and scenery,  meeting new people and satisfaction of pushing yourself hard...and making it. 

Sage almost always beats me to the top of a climb.

Day 19- Peck's Corner Shelter to Cosby Knob Shelter

Tuesday May 24th
Total Miles Hiked: 229.9
Miles Hiked Today: 12.6
Weather: Sunny and Cool

  We broke camp around 815, and charged up a set of climbs without much difficulty.  The weather was cool and sunny, perfect.

  We stopped at Tri-corner Knob Shelter for a lunch of Mountain House Lasagna and Chicken Noodle. After finishing 2+ servings of Chicken Noodle,  Sage asked for more food. She then polished off a beef ramen. Our food bag is nearly empty, our fuel canister is nearly done, but we have just enough to make it to our resupply tomorrow. This is a great success...it means we haven't taken a bunch of extra food weight on a difficult walk.

  We really lounged about at lunch. I took advantage of the nearby spring to wash some clothes, which will then air dry on the back of my pack as we hike. Before we left, John from Minnesota,  a through hiker we've been hiking with for about a week, rolled into the shelter. Looking at the choice between a 12.6 and 20+ mile day, he chose to roll over and sleep in. Good choice, a through hike is an endurance event,  20+ mile days will happen, but the Smokies are probably not the mountains to do them.

With a mostly dry trail and a shorter day, Sage and I really enjoyed this section of trail.

We took a foot break to enjoy this view.

It was shaping up to be yet another best day on the trail, walking through a smooth trail, pine forest like below, I stepped on a rock. Something I've done more than a few times on this trip. Just another rock. But it bent the second toe on my left foot funny, and I felt a sharp pain shoot through my foot.  Suddenly, every step hurt. Alot. With all the medical expertise I possess (none), I diagnosed it as either a sprain, a broken toe, or some other form of messed up. With 4 miles left to the shelter on what was suppose to be an easy day, I began hobbling slowly down the mountain. We arrived about 2 hours later than we would have otherwise arrived. I probably managed to hurt it another 10 times on the way down,  but nothing too severe. After a good freeze in the spring water, and a couple Ibuprofen,  it seemed possible it will be better the next day. 

Tomorrow is our last day in the Smokies, they have managed to be both the high point and low point of our trip. When the sun is shining, it's a great place to hike. 

Day 20- Cosby Knob Shelter to Davenport Gap

Wed May 25th
Total Miles Hiked: 237.9
Miles Hiked Today: 7.9

  The day started with a bright sunrise and a clear blue sky. 

I retrieved the food bag from the bear cables and observed that all I had for breakfast in the meal bag was a packet of tuna, a packet of mayo, and some bacon bits.

  I decided to save the bacon bits for an emergency,  and enjoyed my breakfast of tuna. I supplemented it with some dried fruit and a couple payday bars. The empty fuel canister continued to burn, so I made some instant espresso as well.

   I still had a Chicken and Noodle Mountain House meal for Sage, so I made that for her breakfast.

With a few snacks left, and almost 8 miles to go, we set out on our final day in thr Smokies. 

The day started with a pleasant .8 miles downhill. Then we began a couple miles of climbing about 800 ft. Enough to get the blood flowing, but not difficult. 

We took a side trail to see  the Mt Cammerer Overlook, definitely worth the extra mile of non-AT hiking 

 It always amazes me to see how high the mountains look, and to look back and see what we've already climbed.

 I love this trail, it has taken us over and through a beautiful part of America. I wish we were doing a thru hike as it would be fascinating to see the landscape change as we move North. But i feel blessed that we were able to take this time, so I'm not complaining.  We will continue to chip away at the trail one Section Hike at a time.

   The hike down the mountain to Davenport Gap Shelter was gradual, and we made excellent time. Sage was in high gear and I soon forgot I was trying to go easy on my left foot to protect the toe. Moving at Sage speed, my toe gave me no issues. We made it to the shelter by 1:15 pm and took a break. 

   About 15 minutes after our arrival, a couple of day hikers greeted Sage at the Davenport Gap Shelter. They were familiar faces,  Nanna and Granddaddy.  They drove up to cheer us on, resupply for the final push to Hot Springs, and pretty much provide everything a dirty, hungry hiker would want when leaving the Smokies.

   I tried to take a picture of my fresh Chicken Caesar Salad from Costco they brought to the shelter, but it was almost gone before I could snap a picture.  It was great to enjoy a fresh salad before I had even left the Smokies.

   Nanna and Granddaddy also shared fresh fruit and snacks with John from Minnesota,  a thru hiker we've hiked with for over a week.

We enjoyed hiking back to the car with Nanna and Granddaddy. 

  After a shower and laundry at the hotel, we were treated to some NC BBQ at a local restaurant. I managed to snap this picture before I had eaten all the food.

Sage and I are now resupplied, well fed, and eager to make our final push to Hot Springs. We have never been in better hiking condition.

My toe seems fine, and we are eager to push to the end of our section hike. Both of us would love to keep going, but a full thru hike just isn't possible at this time of life. We will, however, keep chipping away at the trail, choosing the best seasons and times for other section hikes.

Day 18- Mt Collins Shelter to Peck's Corner Shelter

Monday May 23rd
Total Miles Hiked: 217.3
Miles Hiked Today: 14.5
Weather: Sunny and Cool
Trail Magic Received in the past 24 hours: 2 Pepsi, 2 Muffins, a bag full of Pay-day candy bars, a bag of dried fruit, a Chicken Rice meal, Fritos and 2 Lemon Biscotti

   This was probably our best day on the trail.  The section from Newfound Gap to Peck's Corner Shelter was amazing, great views in both directions,  most of it was a ridgeline that dropped off in both directions.  We were walking on the spine of the Smokies.  I highly recommend this section if you want to do a day hike or overnight on the AT.

     Our morning started early,  we were packed up and left camp by 0730.  We made good time down to Newfound Gap.

At Newfound Gap we took off our soaked shoes and socks to dry in the sun, and started making an early Lunch. My socks drying on the end of my trekking poles received as much attention as we did.

As we hung out, tourists would periodically come by and gawk at the AT hikers. Some asked us questions.

For example:
Do you sleep in the woods? What do you eat, do you forage along the way?

We were doing our best Yogi-ing (Hiker term for trying to get access to the picnic baskets) when it finally paid off. A fellow asked: "Would you like a soda or some kind of snack?"  We got very excited, and he brought us 2 Pepsi and 2 Muffins.

Score!

Fueled by our cans of Pepsi,  we charged up the next climb and took our next break at Icewater Spring shelter.

 In addition to sun and a beautiful view, this shelter had a strong 4G LTE Verizon signal, so we made a voice call home. 

The views along this section of trail are simply amazing.

 We stopped at Charlie's Bunion where throngs of day hikers lined up to see the view. I cringed at the steep cliff coupled with clueless tourists, I was just waiting for someone to fall.

It was not an easy section of trail, but we have enough hiking under our legs that it wasn't very hard. The Smokies are known for being one of the most difficult sections of the trail, but if you start at Springer, by the time you get here you can climb anything. Hiking through the Smokies with no preparation would be quite hard. Hiking the Smokies by starting at Springer makes them much easier.

Yes, the privies on the AT in the Smokies have wheelchair compliant hand rails. Only located 6 miles from a wheelchair accessible path.